How to Teach Your Dog to ''Drop It''

Tired of your dog stealing your socks, shoes and other stuff? Even worse, are you tired of chasing him around the couch to get it back? These tips will help curb that behavior and save your personal items from becoming chew toys:

• Puppy proof the house. Use baby gates and shut doors to keep your dog from getting into trouble.
• Make sure you have a variety of appropriate toys. Choose toys and chews that your dog finds desirable and then rotate them frequently so he never has access to all of them at one time, otherwise he may get bored with them. Sometimes it helps to keep the “available” toys in a toy box so your dog knows which ones are his and he can “steal” from his own box.
• When your dog has something you want, trade him. Make sure you use fabulous treats and let him think he’s “trading up.” You can say “drop it” as you offer the trade and soon he’ll release the items just on the verbal cue.
• Don’t wait until he has stolen something to practice “drop it.” Set up bait items and be prepared to trade. Use things you can give back to him after he drops it. You don’t want the dog to think that if he gives something to you, he’ll never see it again. Use all different sorts of items too, not just toys.
• Many dogs steal for attention. Give more attention to good behavior than bad. When you see your puppy chewing on his own toys, make a big fuss about it! He’ll remember which items get your attention.
• Do not chase the dog! That only makes it a game for him. Go get something yummy to use for the trade and walk calmly up to him and offer the treat. If he’s really bad about running from you, you may need to keep him on a light leash or drag line for a while so you can step on the leash if he starts to run.
• Trick him! If you cannot get close enough to trade him, then make him think you have something even better. Grab a toy and make a fuss playing by yourself with it. Giggle and tease him with it. Run away with it. Make him really want it. Be sure he’s followed you far enough away from the original item that you’ll be able to rescue it once his attention is diverted.
• If all else fails, grab a handful of treats and throw them down on the ground near the dog. Most dogs are greedy and will eventually drop what they have to eat the treats. At that point, put your foot over the item so the dog can’t grab it again, and then pick it up.

Remember, dogs invent games if we don’t keep them mentally and physically stimulated. Exercise and training are your best friends. Train your dog to drop something on cue and then provide him with enough appropriate toys and chews and your stealing problem should disappear.

Debbie McKnight is an accredited PetSmart trainer in Hurst, Texas.

For information on PetSmart's Accredited Training, please visit PetSmart's training web site.

Teach Your Dog to ''Leave It''

“Leave it” can be a lifesaving cue for your dog to know. It can stop him from chasing the cat, eating medication that fell on the floor or stealing your dinner off the TV tray. And it’s not difficult to teach.

You’ll need a large, boring treat or toy that will fit under your foot. From here on out, I will refer to the treat as "forbidden" because your dog will not be allowed to have it. You’ll also need a bunch of small, yummy treats or rewards and a clicker (or verbal marker – read more about markers). Let your dog see you place the large “forbidden” treat under your foot. He will probably begin to lick, nudge, or paw at your foot. Be still and do not say anything. When he stops trying to get the forbidden treat and looks away, click and give him a yummy treat. Uncover the large forbidden treat and when he tries to get it, quickly cover it back up with your foot. Again, as soon as he looks away, click and treat. After 5-6 repetitions, you will only click and treat if he looks away from the forbidden treat AND looks at you. This is easy because he expects a treat for leaving the forbidden item alone. As soon as you can tell he’s got the idea, you will say, “Leave it” as he looks at the forbidden item. If he doesn’t leave it, cover it up. Try very hard not to let him get the forbidden treat, but if he does, safely take it back from him. If you allow him to steal and eat the cookie, he will just learn to be faster than you! Progress to working on this with forbidden items on the coffee table, couch, counter, etc., and cover them with your hand if necessary. Your goal is to be able to leave anything uncovered and your dog leaves it alone when told.

For items that are too large to place under your foot like plants, shoes, the cat, or other dogs on a walk, place your dog on leash and keep him out of reach of the item. Tell him one time to “Leave it” and then wait until he looks back at you. When he does, click and treat him. This is easier if you have done the previous step first. To get the hang of it, you ought to practice this with food or toys before moving on to harder items. When he gets good at that, practice walking past it, always keeping the leash short enough that the dog cannot reach the item. If he lunges for it, stop walking, tell him to “leave it” and when he does, click/treat, and keep walking. Your goal is to be able to walk by something with your dog on a loose leash. Try not to jerk your dog away from the item, but make sure you have the leash short enough that he cannot reach it.

Taught properly, using fabulous reward treats, your dog can become proficient at this exercise quickly. This is a hard, unnatural behavior for the dog so be prepared to reward your dog handsomely.

Debbie McKnight is an accredited PetSmart trainer in Hurst, Texas.

For information on PetSmart's Accredited Training, please visit PetSmart's training web site.

The Neurotic Dogs

When pondering whether my neurosis is learned or genetic, I often turn to the family dogs, Frazier (9) and Jake (4), and see the likelihood of a learned origin. My parents' characteristic anxiety has effectively seeped into both dogs' personas.

My mother and father are both card-carrying neurotics with drastically different sensibilities. The former engages in an overt style of panic characterized by covering her eyes when our car seems close to hitting another car that's three hundred yards down the road. The latter is more of a concealer; I would cite one of his quirks in this sentence, but the ensuing disownment would be harsh.

Frazier, a beige mix of bijon and poodle, arrived in our home when I was in the 9th grade. For the first few months, he struck us as an emotionally balanced individual, but it wasn't long before the wide, glassy eyes and quivering lower lip set in. Like his human siblings before him, he experienced separation anxiety in the absence of his parents. Unlike his human siblings, Frazier saw it fit to pace around the unoccupied house for hours, howling to the ceiling and holding his paw against his beating heart. Such behavior, though unquestionably neurotic, was at least grounded in recognizable childhood symptomology. It wasn't until the arrival of Jake, during Frazier's fifth year, that Frazier experienced a full-fledged nervous breakdown.

Given the instability of Frazier's ego, the appearance of Jake--an energetic full-blooded poodle with black hair and a trim gray beard--was emotionally catastrophic. When he wasn't lying on his stomach leering into the abyss, Frazier went as far as to commit acts of physical violence upon his younger brother. We knew not to be fooled by the innocent look in Frazier's eye when his leash somehow ended up around Jake's neck.

Jake, who entered our home as somewhat of a free spirit, was oblivious to Frazier's brooding melancholy. He ran and played with the best of them. He developed a flourishing social identity among the locals. However, it wasn't long before the torch of neurosis was passed onto Jake. From whose hands or paws the torch came is difficult to determine, but genetic theories strike me as inadmissible.

Jake's inaugural phobia was a fear of vacuum cleaners. We have various vacuums in our home, and Jake's fear of each is proportional to its size and volume. When the biggest vacuum is about to be used, Jake requires an explicit and descriptive monologue preparing him for what is to come. The monologue is best performed with the speaker's hand firmly applied to the top of Jake's head. We've found that with the aid of such verbal reassurances, Jake's anxiety in the presence of the vacuum cleaners has decreased by 3 or 4 percent.

By now, we're pleased to announce that Frazier has overcome his initial aversion to Jake. Not only do they dine together frequently, but they've also come to display the sincerest form of love in our family: they worry about one another. When Jake's out jogging in the backyard and Frazier's sobbing from the window, his tears run rich with affection.

Common Diseases of Dogs

Common Diseases of Dogs
Disease	Nature of Disease	Causative Agent
Distemper	affects non vaccinated (non immunized) puppies in contact with infected animals; symptoms include loss of appetite, fever; inflammation of the brain is usual cause of death; some dogs may recover, but others have spastic tremors; foxes, wolves, mink, skunks, raccoons, and ferrets also susceptible	virus
Infectious hepatitis	affects dogs by causing hemorrhages and severe liver damage; affects foxes (Rubarth's disease) by causing inflammation of the brain; clinical signs are variable because disease symptoms vary from severe to inapparent (i.e., no manifest signs)	virus
Salmon poisoning	occurs after consumption of raw salmon or trout carrying rickettsial-infected flatworm (fluke) larvae (Nanophyetus salmincola); affects dogs, foxes, and coyotes primarily in the Pacific northwestern United States; symptoms include high fever, swollen lymph nodes; usually fatal within five days	rickettsia
Prostatitis	inflammation of a gland near the urinary bladder (prostate gland) in male dogs; usually controlled by antibiotic drugs; other prostate-gland disorders may result from tumours (carcinoma, sarcoma) or from abnormal increase in cell multiplication (hyperplasia)	varied
Congenital heart	may occur in 1 percent of all dogs; heart disorders may lead to secondary disease diseases such as pneumonia, accumulation of fluid in body cavities, laboured breathing, edema; heart failure occurs	inherited tendency
Hip dysplasia	crippling disorder common in many breeds (especially German shepherds); a shallow hip socket (acetabulum) results in an unstable hip joint, particularly during motion of hindleg	apparently inherited tendency
Kidney stones (calculi, urolithiasis)	calculi develop in kidney, bladder, and male urethra (tube from bladder to outside of body); surgery usually necessary; inherited types include cystine calculi in certain dachshunds and uric acid calculi in male dalmatians	hereditary, functional disturbance
Hypothyroidism	thyroid gland may function marginally or be absent; symptoms include awkward, slow movement, coarse, dry coat; treatment includes iodine, thyroid preparations	functional disturbance
Dermatitis	common symptoms include skin inflammation and loss of hair; causative agents include nutritional deficiencies, bacterial infections, hypothyroidism, allergies, hormone imbalances, and parasites (e.g., fleas, lice, mites, fly larvae, and ticks)	varied
Strychnine poisoning	accidental ingestion of 0.75 milligram of the poison (found in rat poisons) per kilogram (about 2.25 pounds) of body weight may cause death from convulsions and respiratory distress	chemical compound
Glaucoma	a group of eye diseases in which the retina and optic nerve are damaged; certain breeds have a hereditary tendency for the disease; other breeds develop glaucoma as a result of other eye disorders	hereditary tendency in some breeds
Granulomatous colitis	usually found in boxer dogs; symptoms include bloody diarrhea; severely and chronically affected dogs become emaciated; an infectious agent observed microscopically in the thickened colon has not yet been isolated or characterized	not yet characterized
Pancreatitis	in acute types the gland may be destroyed because of inflammation from unknown causes; an animal that lives may develop diabetes mellitus or be unable to secrete enzymes from pancreas, or both, thus preventing digestion, which increases the appetite and causes progressive weight loss; treatment difficult	unknown

Behavior Problems in Dogs

There are many behavioral problems in dogs that leave us wondering: Why are they doing that? What are the causes and what can I do to stop such behavior? Some of the more frequently reported behavioral problems are described below.

Destructive behavior
Destructive behavior is one of the most common complaints from dog owners, and hence necessitates the most in-depth discussion. A dog quickly ceases to be ‘man’s best friend’ when he/she scratches up a prized rug, chews up a favourite sweater, or eats an expensive pair of shoes. Destructive behavior is due to many causes, including separation anxiety. Many owners are gone from the house for many hours during the day, and the result is that the dog has more opportunity to develop destructive behavior The problem with this is that owners come home and see the chewed object and will punish the dog at that time. The dog will not associate the act of destruction to the punishment because they will not understand exactly why you are upset. They will act ‘guilty’ because they know you are upset, but they will not associate your anger with their act of destroying the object. Therefore, do not punish a dog for its behavior unless you catch him in the act.

Another reason for destructive behavior is lack of environmental stimulation. Boredom may be a cause, or at least a contributing factor, especially in young or large dogs that do not receive adequate exercise. Dogs need environmental stimulation. Obtaining a second pet or providing interesting and interactive toys for the dog may help. For example, a hollow toy filled with solid treats or peanut butter encourages the dog to interact with the ball to get at the treats.

Finally, destructive behavior could also occur due to barrier frustration. This may result if the dog has been punished by being put in a closed room or into a fenced yard, or it may be caused by the presence of something very desirable on the other side of the barrier. In these cases, the dog will try hard to break through the barrier and may destroy the door frame or door knobs, for example.

To treat destructive problems, one must determine the exact cause of the behavior and remedy this cause accordingly. For example, a young dog that is chewing furniture but not doorways is mostly likely in need of more environmental stimulation. Increasing exercise, providing another animal companion, putting the radio on, decreasing anxiety, or giving chew toys only when the owners are away are other treatments.

Preventing such behavior from developing is always easier than trying to treat it afterwards. Puppy owners should avoid giving the puppy old shoes or a piece of rug to chew on because the animal will not be able to differentiate between an old sneaker and the new leather dress shoe. Dog toys should be provided, but they should be a type and texture that the dog can easily distinguish from forbidden objects. It is also a good idea to be consistent when presenting toys to the dog and make it obvious that the toy indeed belongs to the dog. Puppies should be left in their crate when the owners are gone from the house. The crate should not be the place where you confine the dog as punishment. The crate is their ‘den’ and the puppy should learn that it is their own safe haven.

Aggression
Aggression is also a common complaint from dog owners and is a serious threat to public safety. Refer to the article on aggression and biting at http://pets.ca/articles/article-dog-aggression.htm for more information. Biting should be discouraged during puppy-hood. Refer to the article on what to do if you have a ‘mouthy puppy’ here: http://pets.ca/articles/article-dogmouthy.htm

Excessive barking
Excessive barking can be disruptive to you and the neighbours. But before considering drastic surgery such as debarking (which is not recommended), determine where and when the dog is barking. If it occurs only when out in the backyard alone, the solution is to keep the dog indoors and accompany the dog on a leash outside. More commonly, dogs bark at strangers or visitors to the house. This is due to territorial behavior and the dog is simply protecting his/her property – that may include you. It is your task to teach the dog to stop inappropriate barking. Use positive reinforcement to modify the dog’s behavior For example, when the dog barks, call him/her over or command him/her to sit and reward with a tasty treat. Do not use negative punishment because it may cause fear in the dog, which may exacerbate the barking problem. For more on eliminating barking problems, refer to the article here: http://pets.ca/articles/article-dog_barking.htm or here: http://pets.ca/articles/article-bark-alone.htm

Jumping up on people
Jumping up on people is a common behavioral problem that is usually minor, unless the dog is very large or the owner has small children. The problem persists because the dog continues to receive the attention that he/she wants. The best solution is to train the dog that jumping up will get him/her no attention. Ignore the dog completely when he/she attempts to jump up on you. Look upward and fold your arms across your chest so the dog receives no physical or visual contact. Command the dog to sit calmly. Once he/she sits, you may reward with attention. Be consistent and have the entire family participate in this training. The dog will soon learn that jumping up will get him/her no attention.

Pica
Pica is defined as the abnormal ingestion of materials that are not normally food. These include soil, gravel, or feces. Puppies are notorious for eating inappropriate objects that must sometimes be surgically removed from the gastrointestinal tract. Occasionally, pica may be a sign of a deficiency in their diet, but more frequently, it is simply due to the animal’s own curiosity. One of the most troubling forms of pica is the ingestion of feces (coprophagia). Unless the feces contains parasites, coprophagia affects the owner’s aesthetic values more than the dog’s health. However, to change such a habit, owners can sprinkle pepper on the feces to make it less appealing to the dog. Another approach is to inject hot sauce into the center of feces so the dog cannot smell that it has been been altered.

Excessive licking
Self-mutilation is a behavioral problem caused by excessive licking and/or biting of the animal’s own body. The affected areas can progress to lick granulomas (hairless areas of thickened, irritated skin) or more serious, infected wounds. An indication of the dog licking at an area is discolouration of the fur. Saliva will cause fur to redden. In the absence of other diseases that cause itching (such as parasites or allergies), this self-mutilation has a psychological cause. Boredom, changes in the environment, or other stress factors are examples of possible causes.

Tail chasing
Tail chasing is a phenomenon that is often humorous to people. However, it should be considered a behavior problem and should not be encouraged. The cause is unknown. Restraint seems to exacerbate the problem, so eliminating cage confinement and distracting the dog while he/she is chasing may help. Tail chasing is also often a sign of boredom and inadequate exercise.

Phobias
Dogs have an interesting variety of phobias, including fear of thunderstorms, fireworks, street noises, or cars. Occasionally, the phobia can be traced to a bad experience that the dog had in the past. A common phobia is fear of thunderstorms. Those dogs may become frantic or try to run away during storms. In severe cases, the dog will try to escape by clawing through doors, or jumping high fences. The presence of the owner or a blanket to cover the dog often helps. Progressive desensitization for thunder phobias is a commonly used treatment method. A good quality recording of thunder is played quietly to the dog while positive reinforcement is given, such as treats. The volume of the recording is increased progressively as the dog becomes more and more comfortable with the noise. This can be done daily in 10-minute sessions. If the problem is very serious, calming medication may be needed during storms.

Car chasing/Running away
Car chasing and running away are problems that can be prevented by keeping the dog on a leash, under voice control, or in a sturdy pen at all times. If you wish to let your dog off-leash, do so in a fenced backyard or designated fenced dog park. Once a dog has learned to chase cars or to roam, it can often find ways to escape confinement, so restraint as well as behavioral modification methods should be used. For example, squirting the dog with a water pistol or frightening him/her with a loud noise (i.e. an empty pop can filled with pebbles dropped on the ground behind the dog) can discourage the dog from running onto the road.

Digging holes
Digging holes in the yard is a problem that arises when the dog is trying to escape from the yard. Dogs also dig to keep cool or to catch rodents. If the dog is left outdoors during hot weather, ensure the dog has a cool shelter with plenty of water available. Eliminate rodents and put chicken wire where the dog likes to dig to deter it. If the dog is a natural digger like a Terrier then the digging has a genetic component. Consider giving the dog an area where it is allowed to dig.